Travel - Ireland
My husband’s biggest wish for his 60th birthday was to celebrate in Dublin! More specifically, to enjoy a Guinness on the top floor of the Guinness Storehouse on his actual birthday. Sometimes, wishes do come true.
First Leg
This photo shows us fresh and excited as we began our journey. We drove to the Chattanooga Airport to catch our connecting flight to Dallas. We should have taken off for Dublin that night but due to a “mechanical issue” with the plane, we had to spend an unplanned night in Dallas at a hotel American Airlines provided. We were very disappointed but knew those kind of things happen sometimes. We had heard other people’s flight stories and were always grateful we hadn’t experienced this kind of hiccup before. Now, we had our own flight story but were thankful to have a hot shower and comfortable bed to sleep in. Our flight the next day, which happened to be our 34th wedding anniversary, wasn’t until 2:00 p.m. which caused us to miss an entire day and night in Dublin and all the costs that went with it. It also limited our time with Hannah. We had a bumpy flight across the Atlantic but arrived in Dublin safe and sound the next morning.
Full Irish
We arrived at the Schoolhouse Hotel around 6:00 a.m. on October 7th, David’s 60th birthday! After a few hours’ sleep, we met up with our oldest daughter, Hannah, for a full Irish breakfast, complete with a birthday candle and “happy birthday” song, Hannah arranged ahead of time.
Hannah had taken a solo trip to England and was able to meet us in Dublin to celebrate her daddy’s special birthday!
Day One
Our first day in Dublin was full of sunshine and mild temps; perfect for walking from our hotel into the city. This lovely canal was directly across the lane from The Schoolhouse. We strolled down the streets and wandered through Merrion Square on our way to St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
Merrion Square
We found Oscar Wilde in the park, with his “two faces” of happiness and sadness he experienced in his famous literary life.
Merrion Square was beautiful in the autumn morning with fall colors on the trees. This was the first time we experienced autumn in Ireland and it was stunning.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Dublin is a an easy, walkable city. We enjoyed taking our time, popping in local art shops on our way to the cathedral. The gothic cathedral was founded in 1191!
The interior is truly majestic and full of history and beauty. There is a nominal cost to walk through the cathedral but very much worth it.
Dublin Castle
Our next stop was Dublin Castle. For centuries, it was home to English and British royalty and courts, until The Republic of Ireland gained its independence from Great Britain in 1922 in these very buildings. Today, it hosts foreign dignitaries, inaugurations, government offices and hosts tours. There is a tour of the buildings and grounds for a fee but we decided to simply walk around the grounds and gardens. It was opened in 1204 on the site of a Viking settlement. I felt a strong sense of history here.
The Mothership
After walking around Dublin and stopping in a cafe for a coffee/cake break, we found the storehouse!
Slainte!
That’s one happy man right there! We toured the Guinness Storehouse, which is well worth it, and enjoyed a complimentary Guinness at the top. David swears it tastes better there than anywhere else.
From across the pond…
What a sweet surprise to be able to FaceTime with our youngest daughter, Lizzy, from Nashville! She just happened to have a Guinness at home to toast with us. Lizzy would have joined us in person but she visited Ireland in March for her 25th birthday and didn’t have any more vacation days for the year.
Irish Family
We were joined by Billy and Gay, our Irish family, who live in Dublin! We hadn’t seen them in person since 2015 and it was a blessing to see them again.
Daddy Daughter Cheers
What a gift to have our oldest daughter, Hannah, with us for his 60th!
360 View
From the top of the storehouse, you can see a 360 view of Dublin! We had an unusually clear afternoon to look out at the beautiful city and hills in the distance.
Excellent Tour
The tour of the storehouse is well-done, very interesting and interactive. I loved these famous toucans from decades of Guinness advertising campaigns. The multi-floor building tells the story of the history of the beer, how it’s made and a tasting room.
Check out the top
Take a gander at the circular top of the storehouse from the outside. This is where you get the 360 view and a Guinness!
After our time at the storehouse, Billy and Gay treated us to fish and chips and birthday cake in their home!
We made happy memories at this place!
Our Hotel
I can’t say enough good things about this hotel! We loved everything about it, from the historical significance, charming character, comfort, location and delicious breakfasts. We would highly recommend staying here.
The architecture of the former school is stunning!
The building and quaint garden was full of colorful flowers and green spaces.
We loved the canal directly across the lane from the hotel, with the beautiful fall colors on show. We sadly had to say a farewell to Hannah on this morning, as she began her journey back to New York. We ate one more scrumptious breakfast at the hotel before Billy picked us up to begin our adventure to Ireland’s west coast!
Day Two
Billy and Gay drove the four of us across Ireland on our second day. We stopped for lunch at this lovely pub on the way to Doolin. This photo was taken in the parking lot of the pub with this gorgeous view in the background.
Monk’s
We loved this cozy, warm pub Billy and Gay knew about in this beautiful location.
“Give me oysters and beer, every day of the year…” - Jimmy Buffett
two of David’s favorites at Monk’s
I enjoyed a delicious hot seafood chowder and brown bread!
pub with a view!
I loved the interiors of this pub, with plaid wool curtains and cushions, a fireplace and this view out of the front window.
We left Monk’s with full bellies, ready to continue our journey west.
This was from the top of a hill, on our way to Doolin. Billy drove up a steep, winding road and pulled over for us to take in this beauty.
Doolin
We made it to Doolin in the late afternoon. This was our gorgeous view from the parking lot of our bed and breakfast!
I love this shot. It gives you an idea of the charming bed and breakfast we called home for a couple of days. Fun fact….the hare is the official animal of Ireland. The location was very quiet, yet convenient, to the town and the Cliffs of Moher. The breakfasts were hot and delicious! We ended the day with the boys heading to a pub down the road for a Guinness and Gay and I making an early night of it in our rooms. This was really the only night or day it significantly rained during our entire trip. Billy and David were soaked when they returned, as they had walked to the pub. They didn’t care as they had a good cousin time together!
Day Three
We woke up the next morning to a yummy breakfast, then drove to the Cliffs of Moher area for a day of exploring! It’s a short drive from Doolin town to the car park to enter the cliffs area. There is a small fee to park and walk along the cliffs. Some of the pathways are paved and some are not. There is a long trail from Doolin to the cliffs but it would take approximately 3-4 hours, one-way, to hike it, with no bathrooms along the way. We opted for the quicker route but still saw plenty of stunning scenery! It was cold and windy at first, but warmed up as we walked along. There were many people there but it didn’t bother us. There is a very nice visitor’s center with bathrooms and food options, as well as gift shop stalls.
amazing wood carving at the entrance
seastack
It was a spectacularly clear day at the cliffs!
majestic cliffs overlooking the Atlantic
cousins at the cliffs
couple at the cliffs
Padraig (Irish for Patrick)
This precious man sang “happy birthday” to David from the cliffs! Best thing ever!
“you know, I speak seagull…” (Finding Nemo…sort of)
This very friendly gull chatted with me for a few minutes.
As we walked along the paths, we had to shed some layers as the air warmed up and the sunshine felt amazing !
peace
foxy
This adorable little fox met us in the carpark! We think he was looking for a snack. I’ve never come so close to a fox before and wanted to give him a hug but thought better of it.
Rainbow Connection (ask Kermit)
On our way from the Cliffs of Moher to the Bridges of Ross area, we spotted our first rainbow. There would be several more to come. Breathtaking.
Bridges of Ross
Billy and Gay took us to this absolutely stunning area, where cliffs and a natural bridge stand beside the Atlantic. We loved this spot!
The rock formations and layers were incredible.
“Don’t you think daisies are the friendliest flower?” - You’ve Got Mail
the bridge
This is the only remaining bridge. There were two more natural bridges at this site but due to centuries of people walking across them, they eventually fell into the sea.
that’s us!
only God.
a bit breezy
beautiful blackberries in the hedgerows
We were so grateful to have seen this unbelievably breathtaking area! We left the bridges and headed to the Loop Head lighthouse next.
David and Billy at the Loop Head cliffs.
Loop Head Lighthouse
We said it would be a perfect place for a proposal so…..
David, Leza, Billy
Loop Head was such a peaceful, remote place and, like the Bridges of Ross area, it was far less crowded than the Cliffs of Moher.
We said farewell to Loop Head in the late afternoon and headed back toward Doolin.
one of my faves
We stopped at this beautiful hotel/pub on our way back to Doolin.
We sat next to this lovely fireplace, with the whimsical Guinness toucan on the mantle.
cozy vibes
This is one of my favorite shots. It is a perfect picture of how inviting and warm this moment was in this friendly pub. We had been outside most of the day and although it was a sunny, beautiful day, it was quite windy and chilly at times. To come in and sit down and have one of the employees come in our room and light the fire, without being asked, was magical. Sipping a hot tea and resting our feet with Billy and Gay in front of the charming fireplace, was one of my treasured experiences of the trip.
On our way back to Doolin, we had our “Leap Year” moment when we had to slow down to let the cows cross the road. Grand.
O’Connor’s
We ended the day back in Doolin at O’Connors pub for dinner. I devoured my Guinness stew.
One of the best things about Ireland is that their musicians play music in many pubs every night.
dessert
After dinner, we moved into the other room where the musicians were playing. David had a Guinness, of course, and I had a delicious, homemade Baileys hot chocolate.
cool
This was one of the best things that happened during our trip. Two years ago, Hannah and Lizzy visited Doolin and this same pub. They left a signed dollar bill there and the bartender attached it to the wall behind the bar. So, we had to add ours, of course! Now they sit together on the wall, so if you’re ever in O’Connor’s, be sure to look for them!
family dollars
The Simpsons are well-represented in O’Connor’s!
day four
This was our home for two days in Doolin.
We said farewell to this quaint bed and breakfast, on a bright, sunny day.
colorful Doolin
Before we left Doolin, we popped in the shops, just down the road form our b & b. The shops were very nice with woolen products, souvenirs and books.
This shows the shops, pub and stone bridge over the stream.
O’Connor’s
This is the pub where we enjoyed live trad music, a delicious dinner and drinks and most importantly, where we left our dollar bill to join our daughter’s dollar bill on the wall above the bar.
Doolin Pier
After visiting the shops, Billy and Gay took us to the Doolin Pier area, where we saw a portion of the burren landscape, where it meets the ocean. Ferries leave the pier to carry people to the Aran Islands.
This view is looking back toward the Cliffs of Moher area.
The burren landscape is bedrock with a vast cracked “pavement” of limestone formed from glaciers millions of years ago. The tiny plants growing in between the rock are unique. It is the only place in the world where you’ll find a combination of mediterranean and arctic-alpine plants growing side by side.
Doolin’s other residents
Our last farewell in Doolin was to these gorgeous animals in the fields beside the road.
I loved her.
He came up to say “thanks for coming to Doolin and hope to see you again someday”. We loved our stay here and would highly recommend a visit to Doolin, County Clare.
Connemara
After leaving Doolin, we drove through the Connemara region, on our way to Westport. These views were absolutely breathtaking. We pulled off the road and took these shots.
autumnal
We had only ever experienced Ireland in the early summer. I was in love with the autumn colors and different look of the flora and fauna in October.
mountain burren
You can really get a glimpse of how the burren landscape stretches from the oceanside at Doolin to these majestic hills and mountains in Connemara.
heather
This was the first time in my life to see heather in the wild.
This was truly a peaceful, enchanting, wild place to breathe in the fresh, crisp air. We continued to be so incredibly thankful for Billy and Gay and how they knew just where to take us to experience the less-traveled route and remote, breathtaking Irish landscapes.
Roundstone
We stopped in charming Roundstone village for a hot cup of tea and snack.
Roundstone is one of the oldest fishing villages on the west coast and known for its arts and culture.
And then, this happened!
This magical rainbow appeared as we sipped our tea. We suddenly saw this gift through the window behind our table in the pub!!
We left Roundstone in the late afternoon and stopped along the roadside to see some of Ireland’s beautiful beaches and coastline.
Dog Beach
Coral Beach
Kylemore Abbey and Estate
We made a brief stop at this peaceful place on our way to Westport. It was built in 1868 as a wedding gift from a husband to his wife. It later became a home to Benedictine nuns and is known for its Victorian walled gardens.
We stopped one more time after leaving Kylmore Abbey, before arriving in Westport and saw this!!! My first fjord! This stunning view of Killary was absolutely breathtaking. This glacial beauty is in northern Connemara, between county Galway and Mayo. It’s average depth is around 148 feet deep!
Westport
And then, this happened! Our third, full rainbow appeared right outside the window of our hotel breakfast room! What a perfect way to begin the day in Westport.
Day Five
walking to town
After a full Irish breakfast, we walked from the hotel into town for a day of shopping and exploring.
This was one of the lovely views on our walk up the street into town.
St. Patrick
This is the town square with a beautiful statue of St. Patrick in the middle, surrounded by pubs, cafes and plenty of colorful flowers.
We popped in this charming pub for a quick tea break before hitting the shops. I loved the way it was decorated inside. It was part of a local, old hotel right off the town square.
symbols of Ireland
The lion represents courage, strength and nobility while the fiddle calls to mind the traditional Irish music played in pubs all over the country.
Although we sat inside, this outdoor space was so cute!
There were pretty flowers and plantings everywhere you looked throughout the town.
I love everything about this spot! It’s so cheery and inviting.
This is the world-famous Matt Malloy’s pub! Some say, it’s the best pub in Ireland. We experienced this icon later that evening.
This is the Carrobeg River, running through the heart of Westport. I love the beautiful stone bridge with the flowers on the sides!
if you know, you know
We stopped in a hotel for a lunch break and this amazing piece was hanging on the wall. They were the soundtrack of our dating years and on our concert bucket list.
This was sweet, homemade, local gelato. I had the coffee flavor and it was amazing.
The beautiful “tricolor” is displayed above a shop in the sunlight. The green represents catholics, the orange represents protestants and the white represents peace between them.
All the colorful storefronts made me smile!
clever
After a full day of shopping, we walked down the road from our hotel to the grand, stately Westport House.
cosmos
thistle
I love it when God places hearts in nature, like these ivy leaves.
I have a thing for moss.
I had never seen swans this age before. These cygnets glided by silently, gracefully on the water. Their gray feathers signifies they are in their first year of life. They turn white during their second year of life.
Westport House
The first look at this 300-year-old house is simply stunning. The Georgian country house was the family seat of the Marquess of Sligo and the Browne family. The Browne family have connections to Mayo that date back to the 1500’s and are most likely related to the pirate queen and chieftain, Grace O’Malley. In 2017, the house was sold to a local hotelier. The grounds of this 455-acre estate are gorgeous!
This was the first time I saw wild fuchsia. Apparently, it grows wild in parts of Ireland. I had only ever seen it in a hanging basket from the nursery. ;)
Pirate Queen and Chieftain, Grace O’Malley
This bronze statue was created to depict her on her boat looking out over Clew Bay and to represent her courage, resilience and determination. She negotiated with Queen Elizabeth I to secure her property and lands.
It is said if you touch her sword, it’ll bring good luck, so, of course, we did. ;)
I loved these pretty hydrangeas. They looked similar to the ones we have in our yard, but a very different color that I haven’t seen anywhere else.
cosmos
foxglove
notice the horse on the frieze over the doorway and then…..
This gentle beauty came up to the fence to say hello.
We said farewell to Westport House in the early evening light, then said goodbye to the adult swans.
Dinner at Il Vulcano
I loved this place! Great Italian restaurant in Westport.
my ravioli was scrumptious!
After dinner, we walked to Matt Molloy’s pub. You just need to go there once to experience it!
Of course, David had a Guinness
If you look closely, you can see David in the mirror.
We were lucky to get a seat on barstools! I could not believe how many people were in this iconic pub!
One reason this pub is so famous is because the former flute player of the Chieftains, Matt Malloy, opened the pub. Today one of his relatives manages the pub.
These incredible musicians were in the next room, playing delightful traditional Irish music.
Day Six
After a hearty breakfast, we checked out of our hotel to begin our journey back to Dublin.
We enjoyed our stay here. It was comfortable, convenient, reasonable and featured a stunning view from the top of the rooftop restaurant.
Right outside the front door, the hotel featured an amazing view of Croagh Patrick Mountain.
Croagh Patrick is known as an important place for pilgrimage where it is said St. Patrick fasted for 40 days in 441. Also, some say it is a holy mountain since pagan times when people would meet at the top to celebrate the beginning of the harvest season. Thousands of people climb the mountain on “Reek Sunday”, the first Sunday in July, every year. More than 100,000 people climb Croagh Patrick annually .
and then this happened!
On our way back to Dublin, we stopped at Foxford woolen mill (est. 1882), where I finally found the perfect plaid throw to take home. After leaving the mill, yet another full, breathtaking rainbow appeared in the sky! We had to pull over and take in this miracle.
When we returned to Billy and Gay’s home in Dublin that evening, we ate pizza for dinner, watched rugby and caught up with cousin Aideen. Gay cooked a delicious breakfast for us the following morning! These beautiful flowers were growing in their flower bed beside the driveway where we loaded up their car with our luggage and headed to the airport. To say we had a fantastic time with them and appreciated the planning, driving, laughs and memories made would be such an understatement. We will forever cherish our journey across Ireland with them! God blessed us with loved ones, safety, stunning nature, delightful music, delicious food and laughter the whole time we were there. We didn’t want to leave but also looked forward to being home again. And so, we hugged our family and began our adventure back to Tennessee.
No delays going home….our overnight flight left on time, headed for Charlotte.
I believe these were part of the Appalachian Mountains, somewhere near North Caroline/Tennessee. It was bittersweet, seeing a familiar terrain but knowing so many people down below were suffering from the recent hurricane that ravaged the area, especially Ashville.
After a smooth flight from Dublin to Charlotte, we approached Chattanooga, where our flight path took us directly over Chickamauga Lake, where we sail on its waters. We could see our marina down below. As thankful as we were to celebrate David’s birthday in Ireland, there’s no place like home. We brought back precious memories of a grand adventure!